Petanque: How do I create a court myself?​

Petanque can be played on many types of terrain. Most commonly used are loosely dumped and rolled gravel, fine crushed stone or dolomite. Gravel or finely ground shells make the game less interesting due to too much regularity. The irregularities of the terrain are an essential part of the game. However, good drainage is a requirement. The best way to know the soil conditions is to ask the municipal parks department how they would construct a gravel-covered park path on site.

The official dimensions of a petanque court are a minimum of 4 x 15 m, but a court of 3 x 12 m can certainly suffice. Our track is 2 x 10 meters. Train sleepers are often used to delimit the track, a matter of sustainability. Sheet piles and formwork planks of +/- 2 cm thick that protrude a few centimeters above the track are also possible. A stone edge has the disadvantage that it is broken more quickly. A field boundary is not immediately necessary, but it can prevent balls from ending up on the lane or games from being played interchangeably if there are multiple games on the field. An orange nylon thread can also be used as a demarcation. One must avoid that the course is too smooth, undulations and unevenness make the game more attractive.

In theory, you can play on any surface, but we prefer to play on dolomite gravel. Please note that it must be the finest grade: 0.05, which contains a good portion of sand so that the track hardens over time. A layer of 10-15 cm is sufficient. Dolomite can be found in the Yellow Pages under "gravel" (sand and gravel) or under "sand quarries". You can also go directly to the ground worker or contractor. As already mentioned, good drainage is essential, no one likes to play in a mud puddle. On a well-drained surface we dig the track about 10 cm, lay a root cloth and dolomite on top. The root cloth prevents the growth of weeds and prevents the mixing of dolomite with sand by worms and other pests. Dam it and you're done.

However, if you have a heavy, less permeable soil, you'll need to take a different approach. The court will be excavated deeper. Beneath the 10 cm layer of dolomite, you should add a layer of rubble: crushed stone, broken construction debris, coarse gravel, etc., with a minimum thickness of 20 cm to ensure proper drainage. If you dig 30 cm deep, it's no longer necessary to lay down a root cloth.​

WARNING: All this digging will generate a lot of soil. Decide in advance what you will do with it: remove it or use it in your own garden. In our case, it amounts to 2 x 10 x 0.30 meters, or 6 cubic meters of soil.

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Petanque: Who is Fanny?

In every game, there's bound to be an absolute loser. In the game of pétanque, that's 0 - 13! This defeat is referred to as "Fanny." But who exactly is this mysterious Fanny? Here are two juicy stories:

The first story takes place at the end of the 19th century in one of the first pétanque clubs in Lyon. There, a certain Fanny Dubriand had the habit of baring her behind to the unfortunate souls who had lost with a score of 0 - 13. Were they, as the ultimate humiliation, forced to kiss Fanny's bare buttocks? Who can say. In any case, since then the expression "Allez embrasser Fanny" (Go kiss Fanny) has been used for these unfortunate losers.

​A second story: just before the First World War, Fanny worked as a waitress in a café in Grand Lemps, Northern France. Losers who didn't score a single point were allowed to embrace her for comfort, a kind of moral compensation. Until one day, even the local mayor insisted on being comforted. But what did our Fanny do? She climbed onto a chair, hiked up her skirts, and presented him with her other bare cheeks. And our little mayor, not one to be easily intimidated, promptly gave them two hearty kisses. This was the beginning of a long tradition.

Since then, many clubs have a replica of Fanny which they place in a place of honor in their clubhouse. The victors bring their unfortunate 0 - 13 losers to give them a kiss on Fanny's behind with a bow. If a better player has the misfortune of encountering Fanny and is allowed to kiss her, it's certainly a boost for the less skilled players. No matter how good you are, the ball is round and does what it wants.
In French, they say "mettre Fanny" or "il est Fanny" or sometimes "il a fait Fanny", but they always say "Fanny paie à boire" (Fanny pays for drinks). A splendid tradition!

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Petanque: How do you choose the right boule?​

1. The hardness

A soft boule will bounce less on a hard surface and also bounce back less when making a direct hit (which is a significant advantage in the game). However, such a boule will show signs of wear and tear more quickly due to contact with the ground and other boules. On the other hand, a hard boule is more suitable for soft terrains and also has a longer lifespan.

Boules with a hardness rating of + are ideal for players with an aggressive playing style. Skilled players, especially shooters, prefer to play with the softest possible boules.

For more recreational players, a semi-soft boule is the most suitable. They are all-purpose boules and suitable for all types of terrain, both for shooting and placing shots.

2. The metal type

There are two different types of steel: stainless steel and carbon steel.

Stainless steel:

        • Top quality
        • Long lifespan
        • For a velvety smooth grip, stainless steel is ideal.
        • Low maintenance

Carbon steel:

        • For a rougher and firmer grip, carbon steel is preferred.
        • ​It has a chrome or black coating on the surface, which gradually wears off over time due to friction with the ground.
        • It needs to be treated with oil from time to time to prevent rusting.​

3. The diameter

The diameter depends on the shape of the player's hand and the length of their fingers.

The most common diameters are:

        • For men: 74-75 mm
        • For women: 72-73 mm

Depending on your style of play, you would choose a specific diameter:

        • A smaller diameter is preferred for pointers (more challenging to hit by shooters).
        • ​A larger diameter is preferred for shooters (also easier to hit opponents' boules with).

4. The weight

The most common weights are:​

        • For men: 700 – 730 gram
        • For women: 680 – 710 gram

​Pointers prefer playing with boules weighing between 710 and 730 grams because a heavy boule tends to "stop" sooner.

On the other hand, shooters prefer playing with boules weighing between 680 and 700 grams because a lighter boule requires less force and allows for more precise swinging motion.​

5. The striation (grooves)

The grooves in the boules, along with the mark, serve to distinguish the boules from others during the game.

Pointers prefer playing with grooved boules because they provide better "grip" on difficult terrains.

Shooters prefer playing with smooth boules because they don't catch in the hand.

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Biljart: What is the best way to clean the billiard cloth

Vacuuming is the best way to clean the cloth. You can use an optional vacuum head for this purpose. For areas that are inaccessible with a vacuum, you can use a brush. Additionally, a Simonis X1 brush can help remove any remaining traces of billiard chalk from your cloth. Never use water (or water with vinegar). When moisture comes into contact with the billiard cloth, it stretches and then does not shrink back. This causes the cloth to lie loosely on the billiard table. (This leads to slower play due to the increased resistance of the loose cloth "curling up").

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Biljart: How do I chalk my tip?

There is very little friction and contact between the tip and the ball, which is why the tip must be well chalked. To properly chalk your tip, make sure not to twist the chalk. Start in the middle of the tip and then rub towards the outer edge, ensuring the chalk powder is evenly distributed and the edges are well "greased".

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Biljart: How do I change my tip?

If you need to have your tip replaced, you can have it done by us in our store.

If you want to do this yourself, here are some tips (in the case of glued tips):

        • 1. It is important that the top of the cue tip remains flat. You can achieve this using a Stanley knife or a sanding tool, available in our store. Never sand by hand, as it may make the tip round and result in poor adhesive contact for the ferrule.
        • 2. Roughen the bottom of the new cue tip on a flat piece of sandpaper (for a better adhesive bond).
        • 3. Apply the glue (contact or instant glue) to the new cue tip (flat side) and press it onto the cue shaft.
        • 4. Clamp the cue tip with a one-sided adhesive under a glue clamp.
        • 5. After it has dried, you can refine the cue tip with a special cue tip shaper or carefully with a sanding block.
        • 6. Sand the top of the cue tip into shape (slightly convex) and roughen it up.
        • 7. Ready for use!

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Biljart: How do I clean my cue?

Essential supplies: a soft cloth, sandpaper or abrasive sponge.

There can be several reasons why your cue tip is not sliding smoothly:

        • ​If your cue tip has retained its original finish, you can remove it using fine-grit sandpaper.
        • If your cue tip is sticking during play, it may be due to sweat or debris that has accumulated on it. Wipe your cue tip clean with a soft towel. If the cue tip is particularly dirty, you can clean it with a cloth soaked in lukewarm water. Using a dry abrasive sponge is also an effective way to restore the cue tip to its original condition.

You can maintain the cue tip by rubbing it with a soft cloth soaked in a product used for maintaining varnished furniture.

Additionally, we offer maintenance products that can remove the blue chalk haze from your cue tip (No Blue), leaving it looking like new again.

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Biljart: How do I maintain the cloth

To maintain the original color of your cloth, we recommend avoiding prolonged exposure to direct sunlight or moonlight. You can also protect it with a cover.

To brush away chalk particles and dust from the cloth, it's sufficient to use a two-level hairbrush, designed to reach under the edges. You can also use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. If your vacuum cleaner has a pressure regulator, be sure to set it to the minimum.

TWO GOLDEN RULES to keep an eye on around your billiard table

        • DON'T SMOKE around the playing field
        • DO NOT PLACE BEVERAGES ON THE RAILS

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Biljart: How do I install a rubbern handle on my cue?

The only way to get this properly around the cue is the following:

        • 1. Slide the rubber grip over the top of the cue (cue assembled) as far as possible.
        • 2. Then, where the cue is thickest, roll the rubber upwards until there is a large roll of rubber.
        • 3. Rotate the rubber roll one turn (invert it). Roll the rubber roll downwards from the top (tip end) until you reach the desired position to remove the handle.
        • 4. Then roll it back, and you're done!

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Biljart: How do I maintain my tip?

Your cue tip should be rough. Cue tips are made of leather. If the cue tip is rough, it can hold onto the chalk. Over time, the cue might start to miscue (the cue slides off the ball). With a special sanding block, you can roughen the cue tip again. We also have various other abrasives for your cue tip. If your cue tip is mushroomed, we also have a special cue tip shaper or cue tip polisher for that.

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Biljart: How do I use a pool cover

The purpose of a cover is to keep the billiard cloth free from dust.

​A cover serves additional purposes. An opaque cover has the advantage of preserving the color of the billiard cloth for a longer period. Additionally, in the event of an accidental spillage of a drink or similar, a cover prevents the billiard cloth from getting dirty.

Sometimes, people leave the corners of the cover flipped open (on a carom billiard table). They do this to dissipate the heat under the cloth, claiming it's better for the cushion. This is something you should NEVER do! When the corners are left open, those areas remain cool. Moving towards the center, both the billiard table and especially the cushions become warmer. Cushions are made of natural rubber, which can dry out due to heat and age. The hotter the billiard table, the shorter the lifespan. This can make a difference of up to 2 years.
Furthermore, you'll experience a difference in rubber quality. In the corners where the rubber stays cool, it lasts longer. In the middle where it's warmer, it wears out faster. Over time, this leads to a difference in play, especially when applying spin or English.

​So, if the heating is on, it's best to leave the cover off. 
We also recommend turning off the heating when you're done playing and using the cover.

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Biljart: Why heat a billiards table?

A billiard heater isn't meant to warm the table, but to keep it dry. Billiard cloths are made of wool (90%). Wool has the characteristic that when it's damp, it thickens. The fibers that lie flat on a dry cloth stand upright when it's moist. This causes more resistance for the ball, slowing it down. Beneath the billiard cloth lies a slate bed (natural stone). This is a porous material that attracts moisture (similar to a window misting up). When the billiard heater is 3 to 4 degrees higher than the ambient temperature, the table can't retain moisture. The fibers on the billiard cloth lie flat. This means the ball encounters the least resistance and rolls over the table for a longer distance.

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